This “Birds of Eden” collection was another love letter from Turkish-born Serkan Cura to the noble craft of feather making. There was a variety of flamboyant shoulder pieces on top of skimpy corset dresses in see-through fabrics. A XXL flower hairpiece descending all the way down to the sleeves was even more sculptural, while delicately woven feather blazers had a contemporary feel. Among the finale numbers was a creamy feather tutu worthy of a 21st-century production of “Swan Lake.” (WWD.com)
Subversive, unexpected and festive, the Walter Van Beirendonck Fashion Shows are always full of surprises. The Fall-Winter 2013/2014 collection was full with colors and fantasy. On the catwalk, the models were walking in shiny spangled blazer. But not only were the outfits shining as the faces of the models were also decorated of glittering jewelries over the mouth and ears. The range of second-skin leather pants or leather shirts on the chest had brought to perfection the outfits, a bit David Bowie inspired.
Halfway between East and West, the Fall-Winter 2013/14 Songzio collection unveiled an audacious combination of both styles. Many of the shirts became collarless and the jackets mainly reflect the rigor and the straight cuts of Asian style. Thick leather suits had been presented along with baggy pants and thin jackets.
Well-known for his unconventional shows, the German designer Bernhard Willhelm surprised once again the audience by presenting his Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 collection in Le Carroussel du Louvre. Looking more like an artistic performance than a fashion show, the models were interacting and playing like animals all around the scene that surprisingly had no catwalk. Original and colorful, every outfit seemed alive and spread positive energy.
Called “Reversing”, the Fall-Winter 2013/2014 Juun.J collection was a presentation of how contradictions can create a “contrasting beauty”. First, the South Korean designer had literally turned out the insides of the clothes. The pockets were put visibly and the sleeves of the coats were made of different texture as if they had been deconstructed and reversed inside out. Playing between retro and futurism, the contradiction also came from the way the designer styled the outfits. Bomber jackets from the 1950s were presented alongside hybrid and original streetwear. The size was another opportunity to express this contradiction as bulky coats or oversized sweatshirts and blousons had been associated with skinny pants. No matter how, the designer tried to create the most contrasting silhouettes also source of beauty.
For the next Autumn/Winter season the FROM BRITTEN P/L creators Alexander and Tim Britten-Finschi designed an uncluttered and functional collection. Simple at first glance, the collection is yet very subtle with a high attention to proportions and a focus on details. The attention is focused on the utility of the garment, that’s why the collection is more about “minimalist aesthetic” than “simplicity”. The collection is a mix between sportswear and professional outfits and defined the contemporary menswear dear to the nowadays young active men. The outfits are at the same time enough casual to make you feel comfortable enough professional to wear them at the office. The color-block of similar tones of white, black and gray is very subtle and sweet whereas sometimes a touch of Klein Blue vitalizes and enhances the whole outfit.
Fashioned and wearable, Shaun Samson designed a modern and innovative collection. The casualness of baggy shorts and joggers reminding the ice-hockey-player outfit meet the elegance of oversized t-shirts dip-dyed and striped with leather. Dressed with a grunge style, some silhouettes are like an invitation to camping trips where you lie down on the wild grass to watch the stars under the moonlight and amongst the forest monsters. The warm earmuffs, the wool used throughout the show and the iridescent bulky jackets could have easily convinced us to steal some pieces from the show to wear them right away and add some folklore down the streets.
Here we go again for the Menswear Fall/Winter 2013-2014. Invitations are still being sent. Check with our PRs if we have you on our lists.
Soundtrack of the Shaun Samson show
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