‘JOURNEY TO THE
CENTER OF THE EARTH’
FRAGILITY / ENDURANCE
TRENDS STUDY OF PANELS PLEATS IN TWO COLORS DUAL PLEATS SHINE PANELS STRATA ROUND SHOULDERS CAPED SHOULDERS SYMMETRICAL PLEATS SEQUENCES OF PANELS CREW NECKS TURTLE NECKS
MATERIALS WOOL WAFFLE LUREX YARN COATED LEATHER WOOL MIRROR LEATHER GOLD LEATHER IRIDESCENT FABRICS PONY-HAIR
COLORS BLACK PYRITE SOLAR GOLD GOLD OXIDES VOLCANIC RED OMBRE EFFECT
For Autumn Winter 2014 Manish Arora presents a candy tribe of sweet-toothed nomads and gummy bear gypsies. Oversize ice-cream prints and sugary landscapes adorn Peruvian circle skirts and drop-waisted ancient Chinese workers’ trousers, worn over lurex thermals and long-johns. Knife pleats come in floor length gypsy skirts and layered print dresses. A sporty youthfulness runs throughout the collection – specially created signature sneakers flash with each step thanks to built in LED lights, hooded puffa capes are printed in waterproof techno fabric, and sporty nylon backpacks double as babies slung on the back or swaddled in front. Miniature hot water bottles and hip flasks keep our nomadic wanderers warm on their travels. A colourful cast of characters makes up Arora’s roaming clan of saccharine heroines – futuristic galaxy girls, infatuated flower girls and candy-striped baby-mothers, boyish utility girls and space travelling tomboys, velvet-clad widows and optimistic brides. Arora’s characteristic embroidery manifests itself as cupcakes and donuts, ice-creams and lollipops, on striped knitted sweaters and tanks, sequin tops and capes, velvet skirts and dresses, and Laplandic pom-pom hats topped with multi-coloured fur cherries, hearts, moons, and gummy bears. Ethnic inspired gold jewellery crowns the head and decorates the hands in multi-chain pieces that are updated with the same colourful sweetie elements.
This collection is about a story, mine. The story of my family, among many others in this part of Eastern Europe, who was forcefully driven by war. The same story of all those who had to leave to go from East to West in the toughest conditions.
In creating this collection, the image of a dirt road came to me. The cold earth battered by the rain which turned into mud and absorbed this mass exodus as a monstrous gigantic sea. Everybody was affected : aristocrats, military, but also intellectuals, bourgeois, peasants and workers.
Is it not the History of Contemporary Europe?
GROUND-ZERO, known for their bold and unique graphic prints that intersect with clean, irregular-cut silhouettes presents their new collection with artwork prints based on a revival and distortion by social media of their childhood cartoons and the digital age.
Distorted check patterns are translated onto matte neoprene for a contemporary take on fabrication, as well as their graphic prints are transformed as it surfaced on wool texture, resulting metaphorically as the colour fades, the memory is restored with something new. Reflective and light fabrics such as satin and silk are enhanced as panels for the bold and heavier materials; wool, neoprene and leather. Contrasting colours are sweet in ivory, citrus and cucumber, in playful silhouettes where side seams and hems are shaped forward.
Footwear collaboration with Youngwon Kim, shoe designer created four unique pairs, heels and boots that portrays the edge and sculpture of beauty.
For FW14 collection, GROUND-ZERO reveals the fragmentation of their memories, playfully combined to create a new collage of imagery which are collected from the past, applied with modern techniques that captures the moment, and followed by the finished ensembles which represents the future.
The materials used for this season are silks, and metallic knits, while adding a touch of luxury by incorporating fabrics like satin, tulle, lame, Swarovski crystals, and stingray fabrics.
The silhouette consists of coats with oversized lapels, and laser cut panels; A-Line dresses with the signature circle skirt are completed by chain embellishments and accompanied by window paned bustiers and seamless body-conscious dresses. The brand will also be presenting capes and oversized sweaters. The colour palette explores tones of fiery blues, jet blacks and champagne, platinum gold and nightingale navy.
Various techniques were used to bring this textured EXO collection to life, through laser cutting, pleating, knits, and embellishments are used in both structure and detailing, found on his signature trimmings of cuffs, hems and necklines. Accessorized with leather gloves by Aristide, and boots ranging from ankle to thigh-highs by Walter Steiger, it becomes easy to discern the highly modern, unapologetic and sophisticated mood of this 2014-2015 F/W collection.
Please click on the link and then complete the form to register for the upcoming TOTEM FASHION shows and events during Paris fashion week.
A Journey That Wasn't
Antarctica. A fierce, raw, and lonely place. For most, it’s un¬known territory-–and new islands constantly emerge as the ice melts and changes the environment. Mainly inspired by the namesake video installation by French artist Pierre Huyghe, A Journey That Wasn't is the dystopic AW14-collection by Anne Sofie Madsen. Huyghe takes the viewer on a journey from Antarctica, where he searches for a rare albino penguin and through new unknown territory, to Central Park in New York City. Humankind’s simultaneous destruction of nature and yearning for Utopia, for the wild nature, and the fast, mechan¬ic pace of the city is central to the collection and the use of technique. There’s a big focus on form and surfaces as silk, microfibers, cotton, and neoprene are contrast¬ed with metallic D-rings, chains, and thick leathers developed by Anne Sofie Madsen and ECCO. Blue, black, and white leathers have been treated to look like icebergs, while pieces in fox, mink, shaved mink, and fin racoon from Kopenhagen Fur are netted on the inside to give a sporty feel. Prints have been made on the basis of the leathers mixed with surfaces from trees. Washed, bleached denim with frayed edges add to the late nineties feel and the millennium-fear of the de¬cade. Handmade silver accessories by jewellery designer Trine Tuxen and helmets with fur by milliner Soren Bach complete the collection.
Serkan Cura keeps pushing the envelope within the noble craft of feather making. In one of his more outré creations, plumes were worked to resemble fur and fashioned into a hairy pantsuit. Feathers also sprouted from the hips on artfully crafted corsets, another Cura specialty, and were arranged like exotic flowers to create sculptural shoulder pieces.
There was plenty of theatricality, mainly of the burlesque variety. His impeccable craftsmanship spoke for itself.
In Julien Fournié’s world, this season, graceful silhouettes –heirs to Jean-Gabriel Domergue’s long-necked heroines - evolve in the strange atmosphere dear to Mark Ryden’s so adorably enigmatic young female characters. In the 18th century pastel colors of Jean- Honoré Fragonard, Fournié knowingly mixes references and their eras to project his style. Interpreting the delicacy of girls just before they venture in social events, the fashion designer pays tribute the “éternel féminin” dear to the Haute Couture in a contemporary expression. Adding innovation to tradition, the designer collaborates closely with the unparalleled expertise of Parisian luxury craftsmen (Lesage in particular) and partners on R&D high technologies (with FashionLab by Dassault Systèmes) for virtual 3D. Under his hand appears a woman who claims a delicate elegance , mixes chic with casualness and transforms her vulnerability into a charming weapon.
This season for Haute Couture, Ilja once again enchants us with her Caesura collection. Inspired by the seascapes of photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto and the paintings of fluid horizons by Mark Rothko. her collection blends organic lines and sensual silhouettes with the patterns of empty beaches and washed-out landscapes. Ilja’s collection stands in timelessness and the longing of silence in the midst of high-speed lifestyles and hectic daily routines.
The collection was presented in the lovely salon of Hotel Regina and came in a color palette of strong reds and blacks mixed with dusky, marbled prints. But what really brought stood out was Ilja’s sculptural and structured shapes that underline the mysticism and feminine silhouettes of each garment. Make up and hair were kept minimal, with slicked back ponytails and fresh faces, touched only with a rusty iridescent lip color. We also couldn’t take our eyes off of the equally sculptural platform wedged heels with sharps angles that came in black and white.
By Charin Chong