London, April 1968. Françoise Hardy poses hieratic wearing a metal jumpsuit created by Paco Rabanne. A cult image that resonates throughout this Fall/Winter 2013-14 Collection, imagined by Lydia Maurer.
This season, the designer pays homage to the iconic style of the Mods; she draws her inspiration from their costumes and from the androgynous femininity of their muses. The graphic spirit of the 60’s is combined with the mastered nonchalance of the 90’s.
While consistently echoing back to architecture, never has the Paco Rabanne style been so fluid and wearable. One discovers a contemporary wardrobe, encountering polos, school girl mini kilts, streamlined and faceted pants, short jackets or as the Mods would call them ‘buttfreeze jackets’ or a tapered redingote. Classics revisited by an ultra graphic eye.
Metal mesh, an emblematic material of the House as well as leitmotif of the season, has become lighter and more supple. Flocked from the inside, it’s soft on the skin and follows the lines of the garments. Tamed, the metal is pleated, mimics the fluidity of knitwear or becomes rigid on metal briefcases that punctuate the silhouette. The colour card is as sober as it is fresh: silver, white, black and ink blue are inspired by the legendary uniforms of airline pilots.
An essential score where geometry and detail meet modernity and a pure simplicity.