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MIHARAYASUHIRO FW14-15

MIHARAYASUHIRO FW14-15

Mihara Yasuhiro is a worry. From being one of the inspirational high points of the Paris menswear calendar, with shows that so effectively married cutting-edge tech to a profoundly human touch that could bring tears to the eyes, he has scaled down radically. Now he prefers to show in a boutique in the Palais Royale, with models walking around desultorily to a beat box. Needs must if it's a budget issue, but on a conceptual level Mihara has also downscaled. Where Miharayasuhiro's clothes once had the most peculiar, haunting poetry, they are now a perfectly explicable, linear variation on a theme. Today's, for instance, was a movement called the Tokyo mods, an organic offshoot of the mod movement in London. Skinny-suited, small-boned mod has infiltrated all over this season. Admittedly, Mihara's take is likely to stand as the most original, but by his own standards he showed a subdued, downbeat collection. His signature hybrids were in full effect, like the half-and-half shoes that have developed an ardent following, and the coat-and-parka twofers. There was also his blend of classic Japanese artisanship with urban Tokyo edginess, here exemplified by a fusion of the eighteenth-century artist Ito Jakuchu and the contemporary painter Udaka Kentaru. The result mixed traditional calligraphy with glittering clouds, puddles of shine, and an aggressive, graffiti-like blur. It was the high point of the collection. The music, by the way, sounded like psychobilly heard down a subway tunnel. It was Mihara's own mutant mix of old rock 'n' roll tracks, and when he described it, the lo-fi-ness of the whole presentation suddenly seemed so deliberate that you were left wondering if this was one more genius performance. Guess we'll just have to stay tuned.
by Tim Blanks