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totem fashion

Nicomede Talavera SS15

Nicomede Talavera SS15

For his debut MAN runway collection, Nicomede Talavera departs from a place of linear obsession to construct a fervent, optic wardrobe of converging and prism-like shapes, tripping masculine codes through his own evolving design language. A system of garments emerges through planed layers and a cacophony of both slick and humble textiles, with rigorous pleating and intricate pattern work allowing geometric architectures to materialize. Caramel, dusty blue, jade, red, rose and candy pinks play off a monochrome base. Building tension down the body from a structured torso, rigid shirting and long-line tunics are collaged from blocks of gingham and pinstripe cotton treated for a contoured, plissé effect; the colour palette and pattern scale calling to mind the fabric works of French artist Louise Bourgeois. The plissé technique continues as inserts in a technical wool blazer and gilet, its striped motif returning in ribbed cashmere cricket sweaters. Accordion pleating defines bell-sleeved shirts and aprons layered over straight trousers and shorts, while trapezoidal patchworks create moments of graphic abstraction on mechanic shirts and boxy tees. The sense of industrial polish is softened with raw, unfinished edges and the rough texture of ponyskin - cut as pooling, wide shorts and a zip blouson. Custom lampo zippers take cues from the artist sol lewitt’s cubist figures, and a dissected bracelet in oxidized silver is wrought in partnership with London-based men’s jewellers copula. Paired with vans, Talavera’s signature zipped socks return to the collection in white faux leather, and a soft ‘pillow’ bag is scrunched in the hand for a detached, boyish ease.