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September, 22nd, 2011

What I know about Walter van Beirendonck

by Kuki de Salvertes

It was in the middle of the 80’s during the men’s collections in Milan that the work of Walter van Beirendonck first caught my attention.

Freshly graduated from the Royal Academy of Anvers, he was at the time freelancing for a new line by Gianfranco Ferré, “Rhinocerus Rex”. I was instantly drawn to the freshness of the colours and the energy of the prints; it was so different from anything else you could have seen at the time. And I loved it instantly.

photos : Chris Rugge, Ronald Stoops, Dan Lecca and Ambroise.

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September, 21st, 2011

Ernest Shoes Dance

by Laurent Dombrowicz

Some successes are sometimes mysterious or even mystical. In fashion like anywhere else. If you add to this indefinite charisma the French brilliance, you will get marvelous and essential recipes. The Chanel suit, the cardigan with snap fastening by Agnes B, the vinyl jacket by Courrèges, the dancing jumpsuit by Repetto… and the stilettos by Ernest. Not as known as the it-shoes of the runways, it became a must-have of the fashionistas while staying popular. Born in a “designer” explosion, at the beginning of the 1980’S, he strode the street of Pigalle, as well as the trendy area of Quartier des Halles which was the place to be of street style. Show-off and fun, he was on the dance floor of the Palace, creating shoes for party girls, aspiring actresses, wanabees and the alternative jet set who was shaking the Mitterrand area. At a time where we celebrate once more this eighties clubbing spirit (the autobiographical movie of Eva Ionesco is at the same time exemplary and illustrative), Ernest’s stilettos scream modernity, timelessness and French touch. Chic and exciting tickets guaranteed.

photos : Christian Lartillot
www.christianlartillot.com

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September, 21st, 2011

The muses laugh

by Laurent Dombrowicz

They appear and then fade away. During their stay on solid ground, they touch designers and poets with their presence that sometimes suffices. No need for over doing or even playing roles, the muse embodies spirit, attitude, Air du Temps… Ingenious or savage, sexy or mysterious, in her wake we turn and talk… but she doesn’t care, she’s already gone elsewhere. More spontaneous than an égerie, she sometimes only needs to appear. It is in her smile, her way of crossing her legs or holding her cigarette that the artist finds his image, his drive. His pleasure too, sometimes. Loulou de la Falaise shook the severe Yves Saint Laurent, Carine Roitfeld’s smoky eyes ignited Tom Ford’s too-light desires… Marie-Agnés Gillot embodies this ideal; a woman strong, literal and carnal at the same time.

Marie-Agnés Gillot: étoile of the Opéra National de Paris, now on stage in Phèdre.
Christian Lartillot: photographer and visual artist, first book “Danseurs” out in October, edited by Verlhac.

photos : Christian Lartillot
www.christianlartillot.com

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September, 20th, 2011

Sweet Yiqing Yin

by Laurent Dombrowicz

In the backstage of the first Yiqing Yin’s Parisian runway, there was no stress and no hesitation of novice. The stunning Chinese designer is discreet but efficient. She reviews her creations and her creatures with the kindness of a princess. Her models seem to have escaped from a dream or a tale. Elves in fur dresses, modern time fairies dressed in a wind gust with a cloud. Fog and sand sticking to their temples, as if they were emerging from a cocoon. Violette the makeup artist and Cyril Laloue the hairdresser complete the vision of Yiqing Yin. Ethereal but real. So far, so near.

photos : Anne Combaz
www.annecombaz.com

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